Francesca Belluomini

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#NYFW Spring 14: the newbie and the veteran

Motors are warming up and the merry go round has kicked off. 

TRENDS we are eyeing.

  • an element of shine in every collection whether it’s a shoe, an embroidery, a fabric.
  • sheer-ness
  • midi skirts 
  • soft pastel hues, no more if little bright glow in the dark colors

The newbie that surprised me.

Houghton 

Collegiate necklines, pleats cinched with simple Franciscan rope belt a unique collaboration with Birkenstocks which involves the ugly shoes, print fabric and leather for every time of the day, day and night outfits. Pale colors, magistral use of light airy sheer fabrics, mid length skirts, contrasting volumes as in shorts with generous top, feminine and sexy without being vulgar. A designer that has had an evolution and I would say became of age this season. 

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Delpozo blew my mind

A prefect blend of colors, all very much romantic spring accompany a sophisticated collection. Ample and deconstructed volumes on both tops and bottoms, pleats, rouches, embroideries, long and short, appliques on silk dupioni and sheer chiffons. Reminiscence of couture (in the volumes, fabrics and decorations) and old Balenciaga (the point of connection is Spain where creative director and foundation are from originally). 

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[images of Peter Stigter]

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{photo of Thomas Iannaccone]