LET'S INVENT OURSELVES ONE DAY AND BAG AT A TIME

“Personal style is outstanding when it’s backed up by knowledge and confidence.” 

‘The Chiffon Trenches’, André Leon Talley

André, like he was known in fashion, was a barrier breaker, wit, erudite, opinionated, extravagant, curious and thirsty of news, savant fashion editor, stylist - “a custodian and curatorial person of fashion” as he described himself. “He was a mixture of Southern front-porch grandee, straight out of Welty — he was from North Carolina — and persnickety Beaton-esque observer.” opts in Cathy Horyn in her Op-Ed for The New York Magazine.

“No script writer could have invented André.” says Hamish Bowles remembering working with him.

Knowing what feels, not looks, good on you now, not 6 months or a year ago (forget the pandemic for a moment), the fabric’s composition or where the item was made, inspecting seams, threads, lining, button holes, having a seamstress or a tailor on speed dial for an alteration or an epicycle job, bring confidence along. We should all be opinionated when it comes to expressing ourselves with our personal style.

See? Here’s the point: it doesn’t matter trends, the age, body shape, what colors theories tell us look good on us or what sparks joy, it’s not about the rule, it’s about being balanced, relaxed, chill, pragmatic yet creative, mostly rebellious and always overdressed.

As women we are labelled, judged, body-shamed, critiqued, stereotypically boxed. 

Without going to the depths of social, political, or psychological investigation, the expectation of having to fit in a style, preppy, conservative, whimsical, modern, business attire, deconstructed, normcore, indie sleaze, twee is exhausting.

An even more demoralizing aspect of our daily life is to be given the side-eye, expected to be cheery and smiley, cat called, described with diminishing epithets by other women.

The constant scrutiny depletes the levels of creativity and curiosity and I even think that for the common good commercial brands have invented the bridge market of no couture nor streetwear but just plain mediocre stuff.

And then I came across Noiranca’s DE-LABEL campaign “Succinct yet eclectic, [it] heralds a new era of femininity – of nuance, confidence, and agency – amidst the rambunctious veneration of archetypal femininity, while tracing the rumination in empowering oneself out of the typical. 

How can a handbag brand be a vessel of positivity you ask?

By disrupting the gender-binary mindset and disparaging common misconceptions like ageism with three models who posing with confidence reveal their authenticity and “reclaim their voices.”

The Vogue Britain February cover: In which Fashion is a universal language

Let’s talk about the British Vogue February cover.

9 models of African origin or descent, by British Ghanian Edward Enningful, OBE, the magical lens of photographer Rafael Pavarotti. Arresting imagery of dark skinned models on dark clothes on a dark background.

The intent goes beyond ultimate glamour and beauty, which is what Vogue stands for, the celebration of dark-skinned models of African descent and the weight of Fashion as a future-shaping industry.

The rise of African representation in modeling is not only about symbolism, not simple beauty standards. It is about the elevation of a continent.

The cover is so strikingly beautiful that you can hardly take your eyes off of it and you will want (when I will be able to land my hands on it) to flip the pages for more.

I have had the privilege of discussing the power of this cover with a precious Instagram friend, Kneale (@makeminescented) who for the past couple of years helped me and guided me while “doing the work”. I am referring to understanding, studying, researching and getting acquainted with African American and BIPOC culture. It has meant for me breaking apart from the Eurocentric gaze I grew up with and navigating uncharted territory of words, concepts, trends and cultures.

Learning about the pain, suffering, violence, discrimination, brought me to realize and sadly conclude that in 2021 the words “diversity and inclusion” are still used as a badge of honor, repeated ad nauseam without any slight understanding of their meaning. As a result I have seen obtuse, bigoted and mindless commentaries by Italian white middle aged influencers and journalists that are, to say it politely, cringeworthy.

I am no hero, I, too, am Italian and white and middle aged and will never fully understand the privilege of being born white. However, because I have been keen on reading, asking, researching, willing to make mistakes, asked the wrong questions or said the wrong words, I have become fast at spotting someone that for ignorance feels threatened and uncomfortable when they see more than one person of color together.

The point of the cover is visibility, the focus is not inclusivity. It’s a courageous celebratory exercise. The cover is their dark skin, the glamour, the fashion or the hair are what Vogue does (or should at least do). The beauty is the harmony and the fierce impact of these models doing what models do is so powerful that you need to stare in silence.

So who cares if an Italian magazine has done it before or a white photographer has shot it before? Who cares if the models wear wigs or hairdos that are reminiscing of European standards of beauty? All of the above is of significance to those who say that they aren’t racist because “they don’t see color” the most disrespectful insult that only a racist person could make, coming from a place of discomfort and fear.

The cover is an unapologetic celebration of blackness.

SANTA BABY

Quite the ride, but we made it to (my) favorite time of the year.

First things first: the Santa Baby list. Santa being myself expect a nice ride of second-hand, support artists, local and meaningful businesses that give back to nature and the community.

I like great stuff,

Not a surprise here, but I have learned to avoid impulse buying, especially when prompted by influencers infused fast fashion crap. Not giving in “consumer culture” is liberating, it may seem an unbeatable task, hard to rewire your overstimulated brain, but worth all the efforts.

Start with asking questions (to yourself, to the brands, to friends) then proceed with listing your no nos. This year for example I have opted for no NEW clothes: my body has changed dramatically (well menopause here I come) so I only bought second hand and almost all the time I have tried to have previously sold something from my current wardrobe or donated it to the local women shelter. The idea is not to accumulate, but to let energy flow and pass on to someone who will enjoy what’s been sitting there.

If you want to know more juicy stuff on how to buy second hand, like always say NO to polyester, check HERE so I stay on topic.

No new CLOTHES, but accessories and jewelry YES.

Debbie in Maya blue

This is Debbie, a structured minimalist bucket bag made of PETA-approved vegan leather. We go by first name because …

Knowing is half of the journey.

NOIRANCA is a family owned production company with long experience in working, treating, manipulating traditional leather and opted for a less harmful, wasteful substitute that is also the most environmental friendly material. Not all vegan leathers are equal, most of the common synthetic leathers are a by-product of PVC and or PU, oil based … and we don’t want to go there! So what if you still have all the good attributes of leather tactile luxurious feel, softness, lightness but in responsibly produced vegan leather?

PSST: if your Santa buys it for you, 20% will be donated to a charity of your choice. A win win and I wouldn’t even mind if we were to wear and own the same bag.

Sparkle, I want all things sparkle, they are a joy to receive and make the joy of giving a real one. Now, Dear Santa, if those MIU MIU sling backs would happen to materialize and fit through the chimney … oh yeah!

The Francesca necklace by @happygalbella

This is called the Francesca necklace and I am officially obsessed.

HAPPY GAL by Bella is Bella’s brainchild, an 11-year old girl whom I am lucky to know personally. I am fascinated by and admire profoundly her creativity, vision, determination and the entrepreneurial skills she has cultivated this year and dedicated to the brand while attending school and the myriad of activities.

A Kelly sight in the wild is always a good idea

EXTRA BONUS

So here is when I do a little letting-go exercise:

  1. visualize my wishes and dreams

  2. send them through the tunnel

  3. let the universe handle the details.

 

THREE MORE ACTIVITIES

Instructions: they need to go chronologically as the recipe of a cake.

1

If you have a physical agenda or dated notebook, go through it a reminisce of the small accomplishments of the year. It’s surprising how fast you forget about very important milestones that seemed an unsurmountable big deal at the time. It’s been a heck of a shitshow of a year, but the eternal optimist in me tends to always see the glass half full.

Avoiding stupidity is easier than seeking brilliance.

2

Mix all of the juicy stuff from above in a bowl and come up with a word, a verb, an adjective, a pronoun, that will inspire your new year. Like the vanilla extract or lemon zest. My past words of the year have been joyful, slow, power. My new word is SPARKLE, if you hadn’t suspected yet.

3

To complete my end-of-year tradition, get The Angel Reading Forecast by my friend Fabiana of Holistic Mind It’ll be like the whipped cream with the pumpkin pie.

By happy, joyful, mindful and present for those friend who don’t enjoy the holidays.