In conversation with Barbara Hulanicki: on Biba, swinging London and creativity as zest of life

You don't open an online business that booms into Biba, the 5-story legendary boutique symbol of the Swinging London, nor are honored with an OBE if there'snt something out of the ordinary in you and your name is not Barbara Hulanicki. 

I had the privilege of sitting one afternoon in Barbara's office in Miami Beach where she has elected to live and work. We shared coffee secrets, I listened  to fashion anecdotes as a child at story time, I absorbed every minimal detail I could from her longtime assistant/manager/so delightful I want her as my best friend Likrish. 

WARNING: it is clear I didn't want to leave and I really have exploited Barbara, I think I should apologize for not wanting to stop asking questions, shamelessly. To my defense though, believe me when I say you would have done the same.

 

FB - From Biba to the OBE (congratulations, from fashion illustration to interior design, from exhibiting your own works to working with such visionaires as Elio Fiorucci, Chris Blackwell and the Estefan’s, you are a pedigreed living icon. What’s your secret weapon?

BH - I have to move forward. I love to learn what makes men with a vision tick. They have this direct way from going from A to Z without any distractions on the way. Women are forever life shopping. I find it fascinating to work through other people’s minds as I find I am so predictable to myself and I do find that boring.

 

FB - What was the catalyst that brought you from a small mail-in order business with the dream of just selling your creations to becoming the designer that defined an era in a 5-story department store in the center of London?

BH - I was so lucky to marry a man who one of the A to Z people and he guided me. When I got into a fluster he always pointed me back in the right direction. He never crossed over on the creative side and believed that my ideas were always right. Everyone needs a mate of that caliber.

 

I find it fascinating to work through other people’s minds as I find I am so predictable to myself, and i find that boring
— Barbara Hulanicki OBE

FB - The use of the word icon and iconic has been inflated lately, for the sake of labeling everything and everyone: the IT bag, the Icon XXX Award, the IT girl and the thumbs up Emoji. Biba’s success was fruit of a lot of efforts but organic, it happened because it was the truer than true expression of that generation and those years. Did you know you were an icon and felt the pressure of living up to the expectations or enjoyed the freedom of self-expression?  

BH - I never wanted the business to have my name so would not have to be upfront. It is a full-time job being a celebrity. I like to be behind the spotlight as I can get on with the people watching. This is how you learn in my opinion and you have to plod on, and I am a plodder.

 

FB - Your artistic career evolved in time and space, in a ground-breaking expansion from London to Miami through Brazil. Do you still feel like being Biba or that is a fabulous and cherished glorious phase of your life that reflects into your current YOU?

BH - I get nostalgic about Biba as it was so friendly and genuine, today everything has become so corporate. It is almost a sin to have an individual idea. That is why I love illustrations as no one can interfere with his or her ideas when you are working.

I like to be behind the spotlight as i can get on with the people watching
— B.H. on being an icon

FB – This year marks the 40th anniversary of Giorgio Armani, whose legacy is a forever mark of the Made in Italy, I see some similarity with the Biba look, which by the way, would be much older! I am not being flirtatious just because I am in front of one of my idols whom I have mentioned in my University graduation thesis decades ago, I am referring in specific to the gamine look, tweeds, three-piece suit, floppy wide brimmed hats, wing-tips: am I so off line?

BH - Yes, Biba is fifty years old. The strength of Biba was it was for wardrobe and lifestyle, for the daily working girls. Biba was not designed for fashion shows, or untouchable girls wearing untouchable clothes with exotic backdrops. In Biba, the backdrop was the shop itself. 

 

 

ON HOW TO BE ITALIAN

 

FB - Can Italian style be confined in a one-word definition? And, if so, which one would the word be?

BH - Very solid and beautiful and it always looks good in your closet. The clothes are for very organized women, with no flash.

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FBAre you of the advice that you can adopt a look, do you think one can learn how to be Italian?

BH - Yes, why not? Your won idea of Italian might be great fun!

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FB - You have been an innovator, a pioneer and collaborated with Elio Fiorucci, a staple of a specific moment in the history of the Made in Italy. Do you think the ‘Made in Italy’ still holds its crown?

BH - It will always hold the crown because of the years of beautiful manufacturing. That simply doesn’t go away.

 

FB - Fashion and trends are two opposite pulling forces: right or wrong? Which to follow?

BH - Trends are you mad moments, usually a mistake for YOU.

 

FB - The democratization of luxury brought more style in the streets or, contradictorily, confined it on the runway?

BH - There has to be a snobbery in fashion, It is the unattainable for most women who want just one extremely expensive piece. You have to have the right kind of friends.

 

FB - With years as an Italian expat, I came to conclude that Italian style is that harmonious mix of culture, art, design, creativity, passion and conviviality. What’s the element that comes before anything else according to you?

BH - Mostly creativity. That is the most important.

 

PERSONAL & CONFIDENTIAL

  • Morning tea or coffee?  Coffee
  • When I grow up I want to be:  A film set designer
  • If you had a chance to live in another decade which one would that be?  The 1930’s
  • I never travel without  My dark glasses
  • The book on my nightstand  too many to name, and mostly half read.

 

 

milan and an italian summer

In early June you keep the windows open and the shutters shut, at night the breeze blows through the curtains like a soothing lullaby. Urban sounds like the tram and the cars, people chatting and smoking a last cigarette before going home, the neighbor cleaning up the kitchen table is part of the deal, because yes, he, too, keeps the windows open.

Life extends from the inside to the outside: we hang clothing to dry outside the balcony, some of the most romantic love songs that celebrate love involve a window or a balcony, like the one by Jovanotti that says: “affacciati alla finestra amore mio”, that is ‘come to the window my love’.

So yes, it’s like in the movies. In America we arrive home and finally lock ourselves in, we don’t want anyone intruding, life goes on inside. In Miami, heat and humidity force the lockdown and natural forces mandate survival skills: or air conditioning or life.

In Milan there is the tram.

The cables suspended between the sanpietrini (the typical narrow street stones on the city) and the rooftops, its tracks on the streets are what make it “la Milano da bere”, the quintessential Milan. Life flows outside: you sit in the wooden bench, butt to butt, listen to the usual complaints about the Mayor, the soccer referee (if it’s Monday and winter), this year it was all about the EXPO or the validating machine that doesn’t work as well as the line at the post office where you must pay the cell phone bill (oh yeah, convenient).

In Milan, you end up meeting exuberant and talented fashion designer Marianna Cimini, a regular subject on Scott Shuman’s website and finally buy her famed Ballerina dress.

In Milan you visit 10 Corso Como and find yourself face to face with Mr. Azzedine Alaia attending the dinner the two Sozzani sisters honored him with for the launch of his perfume line. Then, just because you seriously cannot break the front and crash the event, you go upstairs to the Galleria Carla Sozzani where an exhibition of photography of the Futurism era and a special production of Salvatore Ferragamo’s masterpieces greet you ensconced from the crowd. From Marinetti, to Depero, to Pinocchio to the best sole creations of the artisan of our dreams called shoes. 

You walk in via del Gesu’ and stumble upon handbag designer Corto Moltedo in front of his boutique and then proceed to Cova and have the best coffee in three steps: pay, present your scontrino at the counter, the coffee arrives and the cold milk is there.

These things are normal in Italy, but are not when you don't live anymore in Italy and you realize that you miss them.

It's all about the simple things.

Along the Navigli, the Darsena has been cleaned up and dressed up with its best Sunday’s dresses. It became such a destination that it looks like a Carnival parade. The Navigli though are still filled with the most intriguing places for treasure hunting like a store of vintage records, vinyl, CD and cassettes, a used books cove and a special couture like boutique called Davide Gallo (pictures came so blurry that I can't post them, but he has the most exquisite leather accessories).

In Milan, you cross town to a once abandoned industrial area and find a gilded tower called the Haunted House (la Torre degli Spiriti translated in English with a double entendre) that belongs to the acclaimed Fondazione Prada. Personal perception: the hype we got in the US, through media and social media channels, about the new venue was more exaggerated than its acceptance in Milan (at least in my circle of trust).

Did I love the collection? I have seen better and more complete ones, this is the downside of living in Miami and having access to the top private collections of the world.

Was I impressed by the structure? Absolutely.

Did I enjoy Bar Luce designed by genius director Wes Anderson? Yessir.

Staying with the art subject, I paid an impromptu visit to the Museo del Novecento and the intrigue and interest grew with every floor we were walking up on the enveloping spiral staircase that reminded us of a miniature example of NYC’s Guggenheim. Most people stop by the restaurant for its stunning views of the Piazza del Duomo and la Galleria and then, stop. The museum’s pieces carried on with a certain narrative that accompanied me all through my Italian visit: Italy at the cusp of the 1900’s.

Summer calls for book readings (last year was D'Annunzio, this year I ended up tripped for Oscar Wilde) , aperitivo under the stars, free toes and long warm conversatons accompanied by the cicadas. 

What does your summer call for?