Forget Sophia Loren: Italian style dished out

It’s ok to connect Sophia Loren and Anita Eckberg in the Fontana di Trevi when thinking of Italian style. That was la dolce vita, Cinecitta’ and the luxurious and extravagant lives of the first paparazzi-ed movie stars.

a screenshot for the movie "Made in Italy" of my new obsession channel M2M

That’s a good starting point, when thinking of “the Italian way”, it’s sweet, retro and glamorous. But, and here you have to trust me, we kinda moved from Sophia. She grew, evolved and became an Hollywood icon of Italian beauty, but Italians don’t recognize themselves in her anymore, we think she is the glory of our past, we are somehow proud of her, yet she belongs to a collective imaginary that is not modern anymore

Style however has evolved, and her stance may lead to the misconception that Italian style means expensive clothing, glamorous wardrobes, custom made shoes and lavish lives. Ennio Flaiano said: Fashion is the self-portrait of a society. 

Virna Lisi, Anna Magnani, Monica Vitti are more of the icons we look up to, because they kept it real, with irony, sense of humor, wit, elegance, simplicity, frugality, sensuality …

Eva Geraldine Fontanelli, one of the coolest editors, stylist, chic Italians  photo from Style du Monde

• Coffee
• Fresh flowers
• Your own perfume (chapter 7 has the whole shenanigans about it)
• Put a smile on it
• Sneakers and leggings belong to the gym
• Comb your hair, polish your shoes, because “you never know”
• Don’t take yourself too seriously
• Your grandmother’s armoire is where you go first
• No garlic powder or canned grated Parmesan cheese wannabe
• You fight for the best part of the fish, the cheek
• Sunday long lunches almost always end with an animated discussion about soccer or politics
• But the above mentioned Sunday lunches also are for fresh pastries from the local pasticceria
• Seamstress and cobbler are preciously kept numbers
• Coffeecoffee: expresso shot, no powder creamer or foam container
• Big pants and big watches

pic. from collegevintage.com

• Aperol spritz before dinner, summer time
• Pasta
• Frugally curate the closet
• Intangible quality of chic
• Don’t buy a size smaller

“there’s nothing more feminine, sensual, elegant, yet unconventionally pretty than alluding to a woman’s body instead of flaunting it shamelessly”

— There's no shuch thing as pretty - Ch.10

• Domestic goddessing, like Pandora Sykes calls it, is part of your life whether you are a man or a woman.
• Flats or heels
• Black is fine, but navy!
• Don’t keep the good stuff for Sunday

sabot + socks 

I learned from the movie that it's been said that "Italy is not a country, but a state of mind, a point of view, a way of understanding the world."

The crash of the Fashion Blogger Inc.

It happened and from the lips and the fast typing keyboards of the most commercial and ad-driven of fashion magazines, Vogue US. I'll leave this commentary of why I have this opinion on the magazine for later, because the point here is that through an article on The Guardian I have found out the news and the drama that ensued.

4 US Vogue fashion editors (who I follow on IG and admire, because honestly I have always wanted to be working at Vogue, overall) during Milan fashion week, called out fashion bloggers as:

pathetic
trolling
desperate
heralding the death of style
get yourself another business
sad women in borrowed clothes
distressing

#sorrynotsorry

But first, some factors cannot be ignored. 

There's always the generalization that hurts, because it's like "if you want to cook Italian, just add garlic to everything" because hell, no.
There are girls (and the Brian Boy guy) that have built empires and they have worked hard at it, and they pay taxes, and have collections of shoes or whatever under their name.
It must be taken into account that those same fashion editors have been flown into exotic destinations, invited to scrumptious dinners, gotten discounted runway looks. 

HOWEVER, these guys are all stylist, influencers, YouTubers, TV personalities, designers, in other words, the gods of fashion's Olympus. I can't help but wonder, if there have been different professional figures in the business for ages, now all of a sudden some social media fashionista can do it all? 
This needs a little bit of inside knowledge, but, to use the equestrian world as an example, the farrier is not the polo player and although they work together, the farrier will not even be considered to substitute a jockey, or a nurse a plastic surgeon. 

They appear as a swarm, sit front row, snap selfies, Snapchat (used as verb here), post Instastories of the entire runway to show they are indeed frow-ers, get out causing pandemonium, get snapped by the street-style photographer, change and 1) do it allover again if they are the top; 2) go home because they were only lucky to get one account. 

L e t m e a s k y o u "where's the style here?"

The collections are presented not for the crowd in front  of the venue, but to give inspiration of the moods of the next season. 

Do they even read the notes of the designer, like fashion editors do?

Are they obliged by contract to uhhh and ahhh no matter what or they'll be without a job?

Do they have an opinion, know how to formulate one and read through the looks, like fashion editors do?

I barely see a blogger at a re-see, which is when the day after you go to the showroom and get a close encounter with the whole collection, look by look on mannequins, so to hear it from the words of the artistic director, to touch and feel the fabrics, the details, the nuances, the accessories, the story. Like fashion editors do. 

OPINION: MY OWN

1. It's a practice that brought to consumerism and conesquently the polluting and un-ethical plague of fast fashion;
2. Lack of self esteem:  they all look flawless, impeccable, thin and invisible size and you are pushed to look like them;
3. they don't have their own style, they wear what they are either paid to wear, post and bring engagement up on or are gifted in exchange of posting and bringing engagement up, double perks if they are snapped by street photogs;
4. they have brought ridicule to the world of fashion, degrading the work of the designers to the It bag or It shoe;
5. they are the reason why I never introduced myself as "fashion blogger" although I blog about fashion and style, I am far away from all of THAT

Where would you find this topic in THE CHEAT SHEET OF ITALIAN STYLE? Everywhere ... but if you want me to be specific, I'd start from Chapter 1 - "The Four Keys to the Italian Way"

ARQUISTE by Carlos Huber or why any olfactive experience you have ever had until now sucked

I first met Carlos Huber at his personal appearance at Babalu in Lincoln Road on a Saturday afternoon and the relationship that I thought I had with my own perfume, Patchouli from Reminiscence, is never been the same.

His genuine passion, presence, exquisite manners are contagious. Go ahead and read the interview and watch it: you will end up recognizing yourself in one of those characters that inspired his fragrances. 

And this is totally fine: the Italian way.   

Name

Carlos Huber

Occupation

Fragrance developer, architect and historic preservationist.

I live in

New York City

But I am from

Mexico City

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FB - You were drawn into art and architecture and graduated with honors in Historic Preservation (congratulations!): do you think it’s never too early to be exposed to art and history?

CH - Absolutely- never too early and never enough (for me at least). I think learning about art and history makes us more appreciative of the world we live in, its beauty, its value and the hard work that people put into it make it better.

FB - Is a fragrance an olfactory reference that defines one’s style?

CH - Well said. Fragrance is THE olfactive reference that defines your style. It’s your conscious choice to define your style through scent.

FB - Is there an age when you become the owner of your own fragrance?

I don’t think it’s the same for everyone. But I think as you live and start accumulating memories, you start gathering scents that ‘belong’ to you. You can own a perfume bottle, but your heart owns what’s inside.

FB - What’s an absolute no in choosing a fragrance?

CH - Worrying too much if other people will like it. Fragrance is first and foremost for YOU. It’s NOT always about seducing others, it’s about pleasing you. Sometimes we can be our biggest critics- we look for validation in others and forget to be kind to ourselves. 

FB - Does a fragrance define a woman?

I don’t think a woman is defined solely by one aspect of her style. Fragrance is part of it, but it would be simplistic to define every nuance and shade of your personality with one perfume, however complex it may be, you cannot compare a human life to that. I think that’s why a fragrance wardrobe sounds more inclusive. In any case…fragrance DOES help define that which is shapeless but essential in a person. It helps express who you are inside.

ON FASHION

FB - Fashion and trends are two opposite pulling forces: right or wrong? Which to follow?

CH -I prefer being loyal to style more than to fashion or trends…

FB - Do you think that the democratization of luxury has brought more elegance and chic in the streets?

CH - Yes, I think there are more ways for people to develop their own sense of style through what is available out there.  

---

ON THE ITALIAN WAY

FB - I am compiling the first Dictionary of Italian Style and I am asking everyone for a one word definition. No pressure here, but you will be mentioned: what is that noun, adjective, mood, person or scent that says Italian to you?

CH - “THEATER”

FB - Finally, do you follow rules when it comes to dressing or you just go with the flow like a jazz ensemble? 

CH - I follow certain rules, but I also like breaking them once in a while. I think it’s a little bit absurd to be that ‘religious’ about certain things in life.

FB - Where do you think Italian women are different, if so?

Italian women know how to be extremely stylish and sexy while being warm and down to earth.

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PERSONAL & CONFIDENTIAL

FB - Morning coffee or run?

CH - Both!!!

FB - If you had the chance to live in another decade, which one would that be?

CH - I love ‘time traveling’ through books, movies and visiting historic sites or museums. I certainly do fetishize certain eras for their art, aesthetics or specific stories of interest…but the more I learn about history the more I am content to live in the present. That’s why I enjoy it so much – it grounds me and makes me excited for the future.

FB - When I grow up I want to be …

CH - Wise.

FB - I never travel without …

CH - My camera.