It was Monday, when the menswear collections were in full swing in London.
it was #MargielaMonday
The #MargielaMonday happened in a white showroom with a double line of gilded chairs, only two photographers admitted, no real housewives of Calabazas on sight. Anticipation, expectations, and wonders were inhabiting the close enclave of Galliano's best supporters such as Kate Moss, Alber Elbaz, Anna Wintour and Renzo Rosso, of course. The Italian fashion tycoon and visionaire, believed in the designer's genius, talent, capabilities, knowledge, strength and took a stand by giving the designer carte blanche and a second chance after being disgraced for anti-semitic comments three years ago.
What went down the caltwalk was suspence, a witchy misterious fairy tale, meticulous attention to detail, exquisite selection of fabrics, but overall a story of ghosts, the past, the present and the future of a man who learned from his troubles and whose talent cannot be tamed.
he had our eyes attentive like the ones of hawks and without hesitation we could spot Dior infused with Galliano through the roots of Margiela.
Everything and its contrary has been said, reality is, it is what it is.
Some said it in a discreet and veiled way others more convoluted, the general consensus pointed at acceptance.
The collection was studied, well thought, developed, presented, prepared. the same way we are not used to expect a shy and reserved Martin Margiela interpreted by who used to be the king of extravagance and talent expressed without limits, we are not used to a zen Galliano who peeks from backstage for a fraction of a minute in a while lab coat (btw, I adored and admired the move).
Speculations on the ulterior motives behind this first second coming out are only as good as comparing Galliano to cousin Rose in Downton Abbey (she had already unofficially met the society before coming out and left an impression with the Prince's entourage) and fuel wrong energies.
Facts are, he is the indiscussed genius who fathered the famous collection Les Incroyables, who resuscitated Dior with his extravagant style far from understated, who made a chain of mistakes and paid his dues, the fashion world has missed him and God knows how much we are in need of talent, creativity and sensibility in a world of normcore and fast fashion chains.
What's a designer to do if not dig into his past, pillars of knowledge, experience and translate them into what his current mood dictates? Hence that sense of déjà vu that some claim to be the flair of the collection, which I must say, didn't lack of detail. research, tribute to the eponymous father.
Conclusion? [Edna Mode in action here]
Cautious entry back into the arena, I look forward to seeing Galliano's strength unleashed in the next one.
