august in 1 minute

IN FASHION TERMS

  • Nathalie Massenet left Net-A-Porter, suddenly and unexpectedly for the most.

Could the merger with Yoox really have been the last drop to fill her bucket? You will thank me and The Business of Fashion for the whole story. 

  • Style.com is GONE. It is now called Vogue Runway as it was incorporated by Venus-fly-trap US Vogue. I am not a reader, fan nor follower of the Wintour-ed brand and I enter the new era with quite a load of scrupulous questions. I will have the answers as early as next week when Fashion month kicks-off in NYC. The moment of truth though will be when the caravan migrates to Milan.

WHAT HAPPENS IN ROME

  • Shut down: everyone is on vacation.

I have worked every August 15 as usual and still, after 19 years, it still bugs me that nobody in the US knows what Ferragosto is and nobody in Italy remembers that.

It is what it is, frustration like confetti.

HURRICANE COUTURE

  • Scorching hot: 1000% humidity with temperatures in the high 90s is no good. Anybody willing to convince me that this heat is sexy, chic, elegant and acceptable?

B R I N G I T O N

  • August 24 is my friend Fernanda's b'day and the anniversary of the most devastating hurricane that recent history remembers in the Southern Riviera.

That doesn’t make Fernanda a natural disaster, but right up that alley, first week back-to-school we went though the first hurricane scare.  We all bought water, supplies, food, wine, champagne (I don’t drink beer) that will last until Thanksgiving when we will end up donating to Miami Rescue Mission. Trying to make us all look good here.

Note: alcoholic beverages will not make it there, as, some of you may already know it, I have been inducted to the “wining mothers” Hall of Fame.

But this is another story.

Denim uninterrupted: a fall commodity

Denim is that all-American tradition like eating Pandoro in Italy for Christmas. So where better than NY City during fashion week to learn how to work it ?

No need to be a skinny, tall and young model to make it right. Denim is for all and there’s no discrimination.

1. Use the same judgement you would use in choosing any other piece of clothing. 

2. Denim on denim. It doesn’t mean you have thrown on the first things you grabbed from the closet at lights off. It can be done with class and elegance. 

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3. Five pockets are the way to go (and a little Kelly with a Rolex).

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4. . From flared to bell bottom there are decades and with them 

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5. Overalls do not only mean corn harvesting, but chic Americana. This season, if you are not careful enough, you may even find overalls while seeking love.

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6. Mini me. When you are cool chances that your child will be as cool (if not more) are exponential. Go for it.

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7. The mini-dress must not be paired with wedges, cork platforms. Tassel loafers anyone?

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8. The denim jacket: a must in everyone’s closet. Unless you are HM Queen Elizabeth there are no exceptions.

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9. The boyfriend pants with some serious Jimmy Choo or Gucci pumps, croc accessories and a cap can only be irresistible.

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Birks are allowed though.

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10. Distressed is alluring however there are still parts of the body that need not to be shared with anyone else than yourself, the mirror in your closet and your boyf.

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11. Studies of anatomy not mandatory, but preferred. Those gluteus maximus (and medius and minimus) are not to be ignored in the process of trying pants on.

12. High-waisted ones are mythological, but very dangerous since they can go from god-like splendid to sordid and offensive.

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7 ways to break the 'no-white-after-Labor-Day' rule

On the ground of T.J. Maxx and Marshalls finds, here’s some oh-wow eye openers and brows lifter stats right after NYFW.

  • 5% count Labor Day as the official time to switch things up. It cannot be we are ONLY 5%

  • 7% wait until the first official day of Fall, which is Sept. 22. All right girl, do it if you please and don’t complain if you feel the pariah, a leprous Martian at fashion week

  • 35% of women retire their Summer wardrobes once the temperature dips under 70 degrees. If that were to happen in Miami you would NEVER retire the summer wardrobe, you would never have you winter looks and wish list since February. That is a language not spoken down here.

  • 54% of women say they will wear white — and florals — after Labor Day. Yes, yes and yes provided the whites and the florals come from the right season, that is fall. By that we mean not Stella & Jean but Saint Laurent florals. 
  • 57% say pastels are fair game too. Let’s make a deal, if you want to be friends, we pretend not to have heard this one. Ok?

  • 52% plan on wearing open-toe shoes through the Fall … hell yeah, even in St. Moritz. Prada and Marni platforms with ankle socks, peep toe evening Gucci t-straps and no panty hoses and the uber-chic Birks. That’s the way, haha, that’s the way to do it …

  • 48% will keep shorts, sleeveless tops, and dresses in constant rotation. We don’t know anyone who would do that, right?
  • 40% intend on rocking linen post-Summer. And here in Miami we are exposed to this offensive 40% all together.

'it's a tragedy': the John Galliano saga in episodes

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It seems there’s no redemption token on sight for John Galliano, the immensely talented designer. [as seen on Vogue.co.uk]

March 2011. the infamous, inhumane, unfortunate “offensive remarks” and he’s out. No excuse, we agree, none should ever express nor bare in their mind for that matter any depleting thoughts and words against any other human being’s beliefs.

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2011 and 2012. redemption, make amends, community service, rehab and all that needed jazz. Doing good dude.

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Receiving La Legion d’Honneur from President Sarkozy (did anyone remotely hinted he’s wearing Hasidic attire at this point in time?)

February 2013. We are all elated by the signs of resurrection from the ashes of blame for our hero/Phoenix. The Oscar de la Renta stint. [as seen in this blog]

The Fall collection presented under the elder statesman of American fashion’s realmproved that genius is like class: you are either born with it or you can’t buy it. The flair of the collection was Gallian(o)-ified with special effects that gave us the “oh-my-he’s-back” thrills. 

April 13, 2013. The appointment at Parson’s for a 3-day masters class after is another distinctive sign. Then, here comes the announcement that no less than Parsons has retained John for a workshop assignment and we are all student-age envy.

April 26, 2013. The anonymous petition against professor-to-be Galliano is filed.

May 8, 2013. Classes are cancelled. 

Doesn’t Judaism, as any other religion, teach forgiveness? [as read in The Daily Beast]

'it's a tragedy' says it simply Suzy Menkes. [as seen in The Cut]

The comeback.

Some light at the end of the tunnel: the July edition of Vanity Fair will publish, we all hope, his first tell-all interview with Ingrid Sischy. [as read in Fashion Week Daily]

a tell-all sit-down TV interview? [WWD]

Liz [Rosenberg] please take care of it! And may the odds be ever in your favor.

my b'day 2011

it is not rhetorical, my b’day arrived very fast! 

I was looking forward to it in the Summer, knowing I was going to celebrate with Cecilia in the new apartment, but then something happened and it was the day before my birthday. Which, everybody knows, is the only thing I am not shy or reserved about. I make it loud and clear for everybody.

It was a dream and Cecilia made it so.

After patiently waiting for all my phone calls, messages, texts, emails to go through, she took me for lunch to this new mysterious restaurant with no name, which accidentally later we discovered being Serendipity. 

Then she orchestrated my whole dinner menu: fresh truffle on fresh tagliatelle, 4 different cheeses + water crackers. Wine was on me: Tignanello 2007, little treat for my big day. Cake as usual, Pandoro + whipped cream, candles and the mountain village (no less), toast on Louis Roederer Brut.

And, if this wasn’t enough, her gift defines her perfectly: an original copy of Vogue from September 15, 1941 that she found rummaging through the booths at the Lincoln Road flea market.

The whole day was ideally a luscious sparkly dream choreographed by an amazing 11 years-old little woman who fills my heart with joy and pride. 

yours truly.