Milan Fashion Week, it only gets better

The best of Milan fashion week will take me a few posts. 

As a matter of facts: there's a part of this conversation that will land in the newsletter, and you are still on time to catch it for tomorrow. 

There’s a trend I am happy to report I am totally embracing: now more than ever the time is right for fashionto blend with reality, fashion is born from everyday life after all.

Many, many designers have adopted their creativity and skills and used the catwalk as a platform to raise awareness, many have made statements, the peak of them all, so far, being Mrs. Angela Missoni who with her mother, children, nephews has recreated a Women’s March “because the Fashion world stands united and fearless”.

This fashion month is happening while too many events are unfolding that pose a threat to human rights, freedoms granted by our constitution and democracy.

How to be part of it?

Business of Fashion has launched an initiative called #tiedtogether

Post a picture wearing a white bandanna, the symbol in support of solidarity, unity and inclusiveness while raising money for ACLU and UN Refugee Agency.

Anyone can participate, by donating, by posting, by helping spreading the news.

Using fashion as a form of art, in support of the constitutional freedom of speech, supporting diversity, expressing feelings of unity and the deep general discomfort versus the new dictatorial, fascist and cold-hearted establishments rising is something that I had only seen in my books of fashion history. Now I am living it in person with pride, as, finally, that myth and story that fashion is frivolous can go shuttered.

And now: have FUN because you guys, the collections have been bombastic. Tuesday was double trouble Alessandros, the Michele of Gucci and Dell’Acqua of N.21 have d e l i v e r e d as you would expect from a magician. In Italian we love to say: ci hanno fatto sognare.

Gucci was a post-apocalyptic show of 120 looks the Alchemist Garden, everything of everything because saying that fashion doens't repeat itself would be a lie. N.21 went from Neorealism to the American Dream (NOTE by yours truly: there's a lot of Anna Magnani in the collections, feminine, powerful yet sensual and young at heart).

In Miuccia we trust became a truth like few in life. The City of Women was what she sent down, an evolution from last month's man show. Don't we all dream a city designed by Miuccia? I mean, not the despicable Zara knockoffs, but a real, true Prada-clad worlds. Just one note: second collection in a row featuring feathers. Just. Saying. You are welcome.

Max Mara has made classics exquisite again (although this sounds a too creepily familiar tagline) and embraced the diversity theme with the first jihab wearing model, Emilio Pucci hypnotized the world one fringe at a time, la Ferretti got the evening cape plus embellished flats memo like the Bible. 

Bottega Veneta and Jil Sander never disappoint on Saturday morning and have delivered masterfully, sophistication and rigor.

Missoni recreated a Women’s March, full on pink pussy hats delivered to the guests and worn by every model and the complete legendary family. I cried, it brought me back to when I was a kid, seeing Angela and Rosita two fierce women leading the pack of all the children, I saw my mom and grandmother and all of us.

NOTE: will update next week with Armani, Marni. And I am one of the few/many Italians that don't care for Versace, Cavalli and the Dolce & Gabbana. I can discuss this with you. 

THE 'MASCULINE FEMININE' IN THE fall 17 MAN SHOWS

It's not cocotte, it's not gamine, it's not Annie Hall or Marlene Dietrich, it's all together. 

This article on Another Magazine makes the case of Annie Hall self-styling on point. Her eyewear are considered an accessory to show her nerdiness. 

It's that blending of the tailoring elements notoriously belonging to a man's fashion and re-interpreting them with feminine attributes. 

In the book I have dedictaed a whole chapter to the art of "borrow from the boys". When to present the collections, see now buy now and incorporating girls and boys in the show has become a practice. 

I have collected the most inspiring looks. We don't all have the same opinions, but if you are reading we share similar taste and style. Juts remember the word "inspiring" because some of them bay be seemingly outrageous, but dissecting all the elements are there for us to grasp. Style is not copying, it's interpreting as your day unfolds. 

"It's Oscar Wilde, it's military, it's dandy, it's aristocratic, it's romantic" Alexandre McQueen's Sarah Burton pays a tribute to Oscar Wilde, in case you hadn't gotten the hint. 

Thom Browne was a show of sartorial uniform dissected, the glorification of Harrys Tweed in all 1,200 yard, as per WWD. 

Miuccia wants us all to be "more human, more simple, more real". Nerdy is good. 

The future is female ... 

The cool girls' guide to a shopping afternoon

So I collected some vintage Gucci and 

these beauties and went shopping.

Strutting down Bal Harbour, we stopped and entertained some Prada reflections

AWW-ed and OWW-ed at that sexy irresistibile Miu Miu girl

fed the Mrs. Robinson’s in us the Lanvin’s take on animalier 

And then Oscar de la Renta: welcome to the quintessence of exquisite elegance.

My sandals match the carpet (a very familiar one)

Oh hi, glorious satin bow peep-toe mules in blush pleased to meet you (you too match the rug)

Black beauties alert spotted on the Dominican coral table.

I don’t know what is more irresistible: the Dior-esque stiletto, the peep-toe, those bows or that Galliano breeze all over them.

And it’s begining to look a lot like Christmas. 'One each color please, on my credit card as usual and the chauffeur will pick them up …'

Then the Alice in me started to jazz around.

'Oscar is a master at pink' my head just whispered, 'The ONLY one who makes pink enviably chic, not corky or  nauseating prom night.' 

That’s all.

Schiaparelli: the utilitarian couturier

Paris Couture Week was a splash in the past. Eat, drink, love, breathe couture at its highest glories.

Karl Lagerfeld presented “The Glory Of Water” on the Quai of Pont Alexandre III giving a whole new perspective to the millenial spectacular fountains of Rome. Did we forget to mention the Chanel Couture theatrical presentation in a make believe disheveled theater?

Vionnet presented an utterly impressive retrospectives of her genius, we re-discovered this time through the eyes of its creative director Goga Ashkenazi.

Then the Christian Lacroix’ tribute to Elsa Schiaparelli and it was a dream at first sight. The debut to the high society after the stint with Miuccia Prada. Elaborate, fascinating, exquisite celebration of her legacy, the collection will remain in the annals. The Shakespeare of fashion? 

The cages, the virtual chirping birds and bamboo manipulated a surreal ambiance. The mannequins carrouseled the 18, looks each one bearing vivid reminiscence of Schiaparelli’s dark, surrealistic elements. The parachute pockets from the “cash and carry” collection, the jumpsuit, the symbolism of the “circus” line all recall the idea that the designer was creating something elegant yet convenient. The inspiration dates back to a the dark and scary period of World War II when “Paris could still be elegant” to say it with Lacroix.

Bravo to Lacroix who presented couture at its highest and produced a show that surpassed all expectations. Stakes are even higher for whomever will be the actual creative director now. On another note, our enthusiasm was stimulated to the point that compared all the other couture shows seemed blushing (not completely though).

And, yes indeed, Paris was more than simply elegant as usual, at least for those three days. Another milestone of fashion history was marked.

What will happen to the collection? There were no comments from Mr. Lacroix and la maison. What we know is that nothing is up for sale.    

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'the most beautiful and rich woman on earth'

It happens in your life like your Bat Mitzvah or your First Communion, sooner or later you cross your path with the Fitzgeralds and it’s never the same.

I was 17 and on my first rebellious stage when I first saw the movie with Robert Redford and subsequently read the book. Although my rebellion manifested in such a demure fashion that [I believe it] mostly remained confined within the parnthesys of my own ears, I had an epiphany: in one of my previous lives I had been Daisy.

Glamour, Paris, pearls, short bobbed hair, women smoking cigarettes, long days never ending before the sun rises, champagne and yachts.

Coco Chanel, the iconic rebellious of the decade, wearing trousers and cardigans made of men’s underwear fabrics, the dropped waistline and just a lot of pearls.

Blouses and bold wallpaper prints, beads, sheerness, silks, sleeveless evening gowns.

The New York Jazz Age of Duke Ellington and Louis Armstrong, les Folies Bergere and Greta Garbo. Paris and the Ritz Bar, Le Lido and its underground marble pool. 

The novel is about living in the realm of possibilities, on the fine line of fragile and magnificent illusions. I read this about the book:

… Fitzgerald’s characters, each as fabulous as Babe Ruth, [are] rendered with the fragmentary touches of a Cézanne watercolour.” The comparison is perfect: Fitzgerald uses bright shocks of colour and vivid juxtapositions to create impressions, not facts. Gatsby’s greatness is measured by the intensity of his dreams, which provide him a “satisfactory hint of the unreality of reality”… 

No matter what the critics are saying, what Miuccia with director Bez Luhrmann and costume designer Catherine Martin wanted to do was to make Daisy the ‘most beautiful and rich woman on earth’. 

Could that be why I really think I was Daisy in one of my previous lives?

P.S. I haven’t watched the 3D movie and I am posting pictures of the one I am familiar with.

stepping down the platforms

Paris Fashion Week is heating up and the next few days we will attend the fireworks of this long season.

A blazoned slew of  talented designers on their first collections as creative directors for historical fashion houses, the runways have wiped our eyes off with gorgeousness.

Live streams and Instagram give us a pretty good idea of what it looks like sitting on first row. 

velvet Mary Janes with tweed hot pants or an intricately embroidered cardinal red dress with pointy flats, seen at Dolce & Gabbana, show my point: elegant and graceful flats.

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an opening look with flat riding boots like Marni says it all

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crown + brocade + flat oxford wingtips set the mood for a bad Lanvin girl

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Prada docet: mean punk booties + fur jacket and crocodile bag 

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The Olsen girls are the first ones to wear the collection which could be summed up as effortless chic, or as they described it “easy without being easy”

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#MFW fall winter 2013: train departing on platform 1

Prada

Miuccia at the highest of her performances? Was there any hint in the man collection of this collection (as we insinuated here). ‘Rich and poor’, contrasts, a lot of Miuccia in the air, ‘raw’ fabrics with unexpected inserts of gilded embroideries and fur . Fashion and cinema, could it be the influence of designing the costumes for Gatsby that rolled out in her collection as well? Tim Blanks said: “If fashion is […] emotion, she pinned it to the wall[…].” Mystery, old fashioned ’40s glamour, noir disheveled heroines.

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Fendi

The triumph of the fur by Karl and it can only be glorious. Croc jackets, girls on Mohawks, color-block inlays of mink, fur textured leather, cashmere reversible to mink. Fur everything.

BONUS: Galitzine by Sergio Zambon just for the one element; the mastery of plush pajama palazzo. WARNING: what an incredibly wrong selection of models. 

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Bottega Veneta

A sharp veer from the most acclaimed flowery collection of last year, but thoughtfully done with intellect, details and workmanship (if you worked with him you have that word impressed in your DNA of vocabulary). 

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Jil Sander.

She’s back. if there’s a definition of minimalist, Jil should be  in the dictionary.  I am love the movie and I am really in love with the femininity that doesn’t have to scream with excess, but works with sober luxury. she’s the Milan Kundera of fashion when she sends down the runway a bearable lightness of the heavy fabric. she’s the greatest at using luxe yet heavy materials and making them look as light and feminine as chiffon while playing with proportions. Jil Sander is the anticamera

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For Marni, Dolce & Gabbana and Armani just stay tuned