Trends alert:the struggle between dare or go home

Before indulging in the story that seems occupying the mouths of everyone in fashion 'trends to toss and those to adopt', I couldn't stop but thinking, do we even follow trends?

 

#theItalianway has a series of rules, it doesn’t matter the order, but there’s one snob little one that says: “we don’t follow trends, we set them.” And yes you may roll the eye and activate brow game, because it may sound ‘toff’, to say it with the Brits. Gotta warn you right now, I am upping the ante with the game and go #girlboss on you when it’s time to do the Italian style right.

 

As a rule of thumb, better known as the 1937's Laver's Law, a trend is daring before it becomes smart after which it becomes ridiculous and before it becomes daring again, fifty year should pass by. With social media the 50-year span becomes an overnight, all the rules are broken and welcome to the selfie generation.

Don’t be into trends, don’t make fashion own you, but you decide what you are, what you want to express by the way you dress and the way you live
— Gianni Versace

 

All you got to do in true Italian style, no matter what, is stay daring also known as foolish if you want to say it with the late Steve Job.  Foresee them, sniff them, embrace them, dare to adopt them while nobody does because too busy to follow the Instagram posts of the ‘social influencers’ or buying what fast fashion dinosaurs copied from runway novelty. That’s your best slow fashion moment.

 

You know what’s the next question I get all the time? ‘Are we not going to buy anything?’

 

There’s no reason to think that slow fashion is boring, ugly, looking old and smelling like moth balls. The first breath of Italian attitude you may need to take in is a tweak that switches from a compulsive buying mind into a mindful and conscious one.

Remember step n.7 of The Cheat Sheet of Italian Style reads

But first shop your closet

This happens after you have done an assessment, realized what’s YES and NO  and adjusted your wardrobe to a) your lifestyle b) in an Italian way c) got the hang of it. 

Buy less, choose well, make it last.
— Dame Vivienne Westwood

There's one movement that we will be focusing on this year and it's called slow fashion 

In this need to label everything, slow fashion is NOT a trend, is NOT about trends, but it's about:

  • sustainable and traceable sources
  • eco-friendly fabrics
  • non toxic dyes
  • transparency
  • fair labor and safe working conditions
  • employing of women and minorities
  • quality and made to last 
  • craftmanship and traditional techniques
  • hand-made
  • made in developed countries
  • reduction of CO or carbon footprint and general impact on the environment
  • connecting with the consumer
  • ideally donating to a charity
  • buying consciously and less, no mindless consumption
  • based on craftsmanship or tecniques passed from generation to generation
  • made of superlative materials 
  • upcycled, recycled or downcycled

What is it NOT about?

  • not knowing where the materials are made
  • short life expectancy of a single piece
  • incrementation of pollution
  • child or women labor
  • 'shadow' factories
  • violating intellectual properties
  • disposable products
  • meant to be cheap

When connecting all the dots above you realize that Made in Italy and the Italian way of dressing are conceptually it. 

In other words, the appeal of whatever has been seen on the runway and the rush of wanting to wear it now instead of waiting 6 months and then anyways who can afford it and I don't really care who made it and if 10 trees have been cut down to make it?

No, thank you. And sorry if this is not appealing to you or worst, if you think that sustainable, ethical are synonym with ugly. With any form of craftmanship, there are cycles and the cycles of fashion are like nature to be respected, like you can't  have March in December. 

Now, I'd like to know: are you with me? 

We'll work on a garment's #30wears and we'll try to figure out #whomademyclothes. There's a series of documentaries that will help us get acquainted to a slow time life wearing slow fashion. 



The Bucolics of chic

A conversation about the concept of chic arose this past week after the launch of CHIC Fille a new French magazine.

 

It's not about being trendy, wearing the next thing, battling against aging, reckless consumption or chasing the latest trend like a headless chicken. A girl's style and her wardrobe are not a chain production mill of fast-paced fades, it should be cradled as a curated exhibition. 

Jane Birkin

Everyday life is infested by what theorists call the 'megaphone effect', an audience pleasing game where you allure the readership by wearing the latest, the 'un-published', the hot-off-the-runway IT bag to drool over. It doesn't matter whether it's 'tasteful' or not, it's what the designer and the corporation behind him are supporting and will be featuring in the ad campaign. Coming soon to your nearby screen, meanwhile it's on Instagram or Twitter 'as seen' on X, Y and Z.

That 'as seen' means X, Y and Z received it in consignment or as a regalia where gift assumes the double sense of present for the blogger and free advertising before the paid advertising campaign. It's a merry-go-round of freebies where good taste, chic, elegance, eye for details go forgotten.

We are not here for bitching though. 

Mademoiselle Coco Chanel

Here we are in the realm of the naturally chic, instinctively refined, honestly sophisticated that doesn't happen overnight, but we believe in it. It's like going to school to learn how to cross stitch like good wives to be used to have to: it takes time, there's no crash course available, you have to climb the steps. Same happens when you decorate a house and you decide to hire an interior decorator, a landscape designer, buy pieces at flea markets and hang your child's pre-school hand-crafted masterpieces and dress your bed with family's heirloom monogrammed linens.

When people show they rely on you, they count on you and they consider you good at 'being chic', you are first surprised, baffled by the role and proud to take it seriously. 

Ines de le Fressange

... that’s how I ended up with this reputation for being the ultimate Parisian. I didn’t choose it, but I am very proud of it.
— Ines de le Fressange

It happened to Ines de la Fressange, unofficially crowned the Ambassador of French awesomeness. There are various misconceptions and rules, but the most important secret lays in learning the balance of being unpretentious. 

How are you being chic? 



Man Fashion Week {revisited}

Pitti started it, Milan continued it together with London (how did that happen I missed the memo), now Berlin. People to see places to go.

The gossips, the pre-show shows of uber glamour and street style chases have less of an impact during man season. Major gossip is who didn’t make it to the runways and the myth that what Miuccia sends on the man runway is a prelude of where is she going to go with the woman collection. Miuccia forever.

So here is a portfolio of what the women of the business of fashion wear to attend the runways.

Masculine, tom boy, suits, flats and hats.

And there’s a trend or maybe is an unspoken code of the high ranks. Or maybe it is just that European flair of wearing flats and slippers and being able to look feminine and chic at the same time?

Just to have an idea on how Milan transforms itself during fashion week: a classic Milanese gentleman going to work and a fashion victim one. 

La Milano da bere.

the marvelous monday giveaway @ SenseOfFashion.com

Monday September 12, 2011.


So: we sponsored the Marvelous Monday Giveaway on the Facebook page of SenseOfFashion.com where we host a boutique.

The question that readers had to answer was awesome. They had to answer what “a moment cannot be mass produced” meant to them.

It was thrilling reading the comments to the post (9!) and curiosity built up all day long. Busy day that Monday and I couldn’t be on Facebook. Late afternoon: the winner is announced (it is the post that gets more “Like”) but it was way past dinner when I could sit down and read. 

Noemi: “It’s not the same to live a moment of bliss, per say, than sharing it, even through vivid exuberance, it’s never the same. Even if a moment on t.v. that captures bliss or distraught fills us with emotion, the moment has gone by. With disregard to the amount of emotion implied on its audience, the real grievance or joy has come to pass & you are like a time traveler, stuck in the past while the world has spun several times to the very least & then you choose how you continue your present-day life.”


Noemi won! Congratulations. She has the choice of one of our 3 best sellers. More on this later.

I just want to dedicate a little space to other comments that personally touched me (here I can do it, the #MMG I wasn’t allowed of course …).

Taylor: “A moment cannot be mass produced because mass production could never produce the emotion and love a moment can”. Right on Taylor, that’s why I still make personally and individually every single piece.

Carmen: “A moment is a precious memory that reflects a time in which true bliss occurs…. one of mine would have to be the last time i saw my grandma mother before she died… I told her that i will see you next week and she just smile….yet the next week never came and i will always rember how much i miss her and loved her.. life is too short and this is not a fake moment and can not be done over again… i will just have…. love is true happniess that we shared… also you can’t produce the same emotion from any moment that makes a true impact on your life more than once.. if so i may just be like any other moment that means nothing”. Carmen! You wrote grandma and you got my attention. One winter ago I dedicated her an entire collection, my very own nonna Titti and her armoire have been the number one inspiration (it says it in my bio which a very dear friend wrote for me). Touche’.

And then Justin and then Lindsay and then Sarah and everybody at SenseOfFashion.com thank you, it was a “moment that cannot be mass produced” experience.

f.b.c.reations + themanunderneath

it was another hot Sunday afternoon in the Southern Riviera.

the set: 4 great male models, 2 gracious and beautiful female models, champagne, a zillion dollars penthouse’ roof top in Miami Beach, The Man Underneath and f.b.c.reations.

under the direction of Jonathan Soto (uber fab stylist) and accessories stylist Daniella Solis. and the photographer, and the make up artist, and the hair stylist.

fierce layout for the gilrs thanks to KRELwear + f.b.c.reations

it was a lot of fun. thanks to all. can’t wait to see the finished product.

this is just a sneak peak.